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Ampelographer Odart

Comte Odart, ampelographer

Comte Alexandre-Pierre Odart de Rilly (1778–1866) was a pioneering and essential figure in ampelography—the science dedicated to the study and classification of grape varieties. A landowner and enlightened agronomist, he devoted a significant part of his life to cataloguing, describing, and classifying grapevine varieties, not only across French vineyards but throughout Europe as well.

His masterwork, the “Ampélographie universelle ou Traité des cépages les plus estimés dans tous les vignobles de quelque renom”, first published in 1845 and expanded until 1859, remains a seminal reference to this day. It is one of the earliest modern and systematic treatises on the subject. In it, Odart described hundreds of grape varieties with remarkable precision, drawing upon his direct observations in his own vine collection near Tours, as well as an extensive network of correspondents across the European continent.

For reconstructing the history of Bordeaux grape varieties, Odart's work is an invaluable source of information. It sheds rare light on 19th-century varietal plantings in the Gironde. Although it must sometimes be interpreted with caution—since his data often came from local correspondents and was not always free from synonyms or confusion—it provides precious insights into:

  • The identification and description of grape varieties that were then rapidly gaining ground or already well established, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which he helped bring to prominence.

  • The mention and classification of secondary varieties or those already in decline during his time, such as Tarney (now identified as Mancin), Prueras, or Clairette (referred to as Malvoisie in his writings).

  • Early attempts to distinguish between different varieties bearing similar names, such as the multiple Cabernets or Sémillons.

  • Keen observations on the adaptation of grape varieties to different terroirs and their specific flavour profiles.

A committed ampelographer

Despite his scepticism towards breeding new varieties from seed—a practice he deemed ineffective—Odart believed deeply in the importance of his work as an ampelographer. He was convinced of the lasting value of his contribution. Referring to his “Ampélographie”, he asserted: “No one has ever taken the role of author more seriously; thus do I hope that this work will be consulted fruitfully long after me.” This deep conviction bears witness to the passion and determination driving his goal to describe and classify established grape varieties. His work remains immensely helpful for understanding the lost grape varieties of Bordeaux and the role of Bordeaux Ampelography.

Odart’s rigorous work truly laid the foundations of modern ampelography, inspiring entire generations of researchers. At Château Cazebonne, his writings are an integral part of our historical research approach. They help us understand the original grape varieties planted in Bordeaux and identify the forgotten varieties we are striving to replant. His descriptions, even if they require critical analysis, are irreplaceable records of past viticultural wealth.

Our project to revive this ampelographic heritage is a continuation of this pursuit of knowledge and preservation. Today, in Bordeaux, we are replanting these varieties that had virtually vanished, recreating a palette of forgotten flavours and aromas. This work is made possible thanks to the invaluable support of the many wine lovers who have embraced our wines and share our passion. To delve deeper into this fascinating history, we invite you to download our book “Bordeaux, une histoire de cépages”, test your knowledge with our wine quizzes, or discover our wines crafted from these rediscovered varieties and explore our range.

Sources

  • Ampélographie : traité général de viticulture — Pierre Viala et Victor Vermorel, Masson et Cie — Partie 165

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