A controversial history and North American origins

Isabella is a well-known hybrid grape variety resulting from a natural cross of Vitis labrusca (a wild North American vine). It is considered a direct producer, capable of bearing fruit ungrafted. Its introduction to Europe, and Bordeaux in particular, was closely linked to the phylloxera crisis in the 19th century. Faced with the devastation of their vineyards, ruined winegrowers saw Isabella as a quick and inexpensive solution. Its natural resistance to the aphid and its ease of cultivation made it a popular "emergency vine" in America and, for a time, in Europe. However, this makeshift solution was short-lived, and Isabella became emblematic of the grape varieties banned from French appellations due to its organoleptic profile and health concerns—most notably a methanol level deemed excessive, although this latter claim has been widely debated.

Ampelographic profile

From America to banishment in French vineyards

Isabella was one of the first American direct producers introduced to Europe, and the only one to achieve widespread cultivation before phylloxera. Despite its hardiness and tremendous productivity—capable of delivering yields described as "simply disgusting" by contemporary commentators—its "flat and medicinal blackcurrant taste", or "foxy" character, spelled its doom in French vineyards. Unpleasant aromas and the determination to preserve the identity of wines crafted from Vitis vinifera via grafting onto resistant American rootstocks led to its prohibition under the 1934 law. This grape variety exemplifies the desperate measures taken during the phylloxera crisis before grafting became widespread, thanks notably to the work of Gaston Bazille and research into rootstocks tailored to different terroirs, particularly to prevent chlorosis on limestone soils. For another example of a banned cross in Bordeaux appellations, discover the history of Othello (forbidden hybrid). Herbemont (forbidden hybrid): another relic of the post-phylloxera era. Another forbidden grape variety, Noah (forbidden hybrid): symbol of the 'foxy' taste and a bygone viticulture, shares this complex history, as does Clinton (forbidden hybrid): testament to a bygone era in Bordeaux.

At Château Cazebonne, we are committed to reviving forgotten Vitis vinifera grape varieties—those that shaped the history of the region. This endeavour to rehabilitate an authentic heritage, farmed organically and biodynamically, is made possible thanks to the support of wine enthusiasts who embrace our wines. To learn more about this fascinating history, we invite you to download the book "Bordeaux, une histoire de cépages", test your wine knowledge, or discover our cuvées online.