Noah is a name that resonates with a certain ambivalence in wine history. It is not a Vitis vinifera, our ancestral European vine, but a hybrid resulting from a cross between Vitis labrusca and Vitis riparia, two wild species of American origin. Its history in Bordeaux is symptomatic of a period of profound crisis: the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century, which devastated almost all French vineyards.

A grape variety born from the phylloxera crisis

Faced with the scale of the catastrophe, viticulture was bled dry. American hybrids, naturally resistant to the formidable aphid, appeared as a lifeline. Noah, much like Clinton or Isabelle, was planted extensively for its vigour and high yields. It allowed for a rapid recovery of grape production, often planted ungrafted (on its own roots), for local consumption—simple table wines, piquettes—or for distillation. It was particularly prevalent in regions where winegrowers, having lost everything, sought a quick, economical solution to get back on their feet.

Derived from a seedling of Taylor (itself a Labrusca x Riparia hybrid), Noah inherited most of its parent's qualities and flaws. It is both hardier and more fertile than Taylor, but also more susceptible to lime-induced chlorosis. It behaves more like Riparia in the health of its foliage and root system, and more like Labrusca in its adaptation to cold, heavy subsoils, as well as in the size of its berries and their famous foxy pulp.

The "foxy flavour" and its prohibition

However, Noah is primarily known for a very distinctive sensory profile: the notorious "foxy flavour" (goût foxé). This musky, pungent taste, often reminiscent of raspberry or wild strawberry, was deemed unacceptable by French tasting standards, which were accustomed to the finesse of Vitis vinifera. This distinct flavour profile, combined with the desire to protect traditional grape varieties and the rise of the rootstock industry, led to strict legislation. As early as the 1930s, Noah was one of the main "Direct Producer Hybrids" (DPH) whose cultivation and commercial sale were banned in France.

Multiple official reasons were cited for this ban: perceived inferior quality, but also allegations of health risks (supposedly elevated levels of methanol, a claim now largely refuted by modern scientific research). In reality, the prohibition of Noah and its counterparts primarily reflects a transitional era where emergency technical solutions were embraced, only to be later rejected by regulations and changing palates. This variety was never part of Bordeaux's fine wine heritage.

The intensity of the "foxy" character is directly proportional to grape ripeness, climate warmth, and the presence of limestone in the soil. This unpleasant taste is more subdued in cold plains or on sandy-siliceous soils, and when the grapes are harvested early. Regrettably, even with meticulous vinification, this characteristic note inevitably reveals itself in the wine.

Ampelographic profile

Characteristic	Description
Vigour	Very vigorous.
Leaves	Large, rounded, often undulating, thick, five-lobed, with a bullate surface, dark green on the upper side, downy underneath.
Canes & tendrils	Fawn-coloured, slender canes. Sub-continuous, thin, green tendrils.
Bunches	Glaucous green, medium length, roughly cylindrical, moderately sized, smooth and glossy.
Pulp	Foxy, with notes of pineberry (strawberry-pineapple).
Susceptibility to chlorosis	Susceptible to lime-induced chlorosis.
Soil adaptation	Adapts well to cold, compact subsoils.
Vinification	Difficult to press due to viscous, tough skins and pulp. Requires crushing beforehand to prevent excessive pomace wastage.
Similar to	Othello (forbidden hybrid): a cross banished from Bordeaux appellations, as another direct producer hybrid.

Noah in the Bordeaux vineyards

Despite the ban, Noah holds a significant place in the viticultural history of the Gironde. During the first half of the 20th century, it still occupied considerable acreage across certain communes of the Bas-Médoc, northern Blayais and Libournais, Entre-deux-Mers, the Bazadais, and the Landes border. These plantings were often intended for household consumption or for workers' wine, especially when access to copper sulphate treatments was limited. However, it was progressively grubbed up and replaced by newer hybrids or traditional vines during post-phylloxera vineyard reconstruction.

Château Cazebonne: reviving authentic heritage

At Château Cazebonne, our commitment to reviving Bordeaux's viticultural past focuses exclusively on forgotten Vitis vinifera varieties. We do not seek to bring back forbidden hybrids, but rather to restore the noble status of the genetic diversity that shaped our wines' identity for centuries prior to the arrival of phylloxera in Bordeaux. Through our dedication to organic and biodynamic viticulture, we work to preserve this authentic heritage, rediscovering the flavours and aromas that modern practices had cast aside. This initiative is part of a broader movement where winegrowers are replanting heritage varieties. Among the lesser-known grapes that marked the post-phylloxera era, Baco rouge (hybrid) stands as a witness to post-phylloxera Bordeaux, along with Herbemont (forbidden hybrid): another relic of the post-phylloxera era.

This work of preservation and dedication is made possible by the invaluable support of wine lovers who enjoy our wines and share our passion. To explore the fascinating history of Bordeaux grape varieties further, you can read or download our book "Bordeaux, a History of Grape Varieties", test your knowledge with our oenology quizzes, or discover our cuvées crafted from these resurrected varieties in our online shop.