Map of France's modest grape varieties

By Anne-Sophie Thérond

The Terre de Vins article explores forgotten or modest grape varieties in France, highlighting their historical role and their reintroduction by certain winemakers. Jean-Baptiste Duquesne, from Château Cazebonne in Bordeaux, is mentioned as a key player in this initiative. He has replanted 26 historical Bordeaux grape varieties, which he vinifies in dedicated cuvées. A photograph of Château Cazebonne’s petit péjac grape variety is also featured.

The Terre de Vins article, entitled “Carte de France des cépages modestes”, highlights the richness and diversity of secondary or forgotten grape varieties in France. Having dominated the viticultural landscape before phylloxera, these varieties were gradually abandoned in favour of a few dominant ones. However, winemakers and vineyards across France are striving to rehabilitate them. In the Bordeaux region, Jean-Baptiste Duquesne of Château Cazebonne is specifically cited for his commitment to this cause. He has replanted no fewer than 26 ancient and forgotten varieties of the region, such as mancin, castets, bouchalès, saint-macaire and petit péjac. These grape varieties are then vinified in dedicated ranges such as “il était une fois un cépage” and the “comme en 1900” cuvée, allowing wine lovers to rediscover flavours of yesteryear. The article even includes a photo of Château Cazebonne’s petit péjac. Beyond Cazebonne, the text mentions other similar initiatives in the Sud-Ouest (Gaillac) and Languedoc, where winegrowers such as Robert Plageoles, Philippe Lelong (Le Pech d’André), Clos Centeilles, and Jenia and Thibaud Vermillard (Amplehus) are also working to conserve historical varieties. The article emphasises that this approach even extends to Europe, with the Rencontres des cépages modestes inviting a European vineyard each year.