Sign up on our website to receive the Book on the History of Bordeaux Grape Varieties, Forgotten or Otherwise

As an exclusive preview, here is the history of Malbec in Bordeaux! It was recently discovered that Malbec is a cross between Prunelard and Magdeleine Noire des Charentes, and as an interesting aside, this latter variety was only discovered in 1992. It is also one of the parents of Merlot. Malbec was cited by Abbé Bellet under the name L’Etranger as early as 1736, in Bazas as well as in Bordeaux. It was Ch. de Secondat in 1785 who recorded its name as Malbeck or Luckens. It is also present in the works of Dupré de Saint-Maur (1783–1784), under the name Malbec this time, in Bazas, Noir de Pressac in the Libournais, and Malbec or Cahors in Pauillac. Jullien confirmed its presence in 1832 (Malbek) and noted that 'the fine wines of Saint-Émilion and the Côtes de Fronsac are produced by the grape varieties known as Vidures and Malbek.' It should be noted that Merlot had not yet (or barely) made its appearance in Saint-Émilion. It was mentioned by Comte Odart in 1844, who drew the comparison with Côt. All subsequent authors would then make mention of it. The grape variety was very widely planted in the second half of the 19th century (Féret, 1878), accounting for a third of the plantings in Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, half of the Bas-Médoc and Libournais, two-thirds of the Blayais and Cubzadais, and three-quarters of the Right Bank hillsides. The variety benefited greatly from its superior resistance to powdery mildew (oïdium), spreading through less prosperous vineyards where growers could not all afford sulphur treatments. Its share later diminished in favour of Merlot. It was likely reproached for its severe coulure (shatter), an issue that was resolved over the course of the 20th century through better selection of coulure-resistant vines. Jullien, in 1832, described it as follows: 'Malbek or Noir de Pressac produces early-maturing wines, dark in colour, low in spirit, and prone to turning sour when not kept in very cool cellars; properly cared for, they acquire delicacy as they age.' A delicate grape variety, yet somewhat challenging to vinify. It was regularly given the name Estrangey, which would suggest that Malbec is not an indigenous grape variety, even though it has been established in Bordeaux for a very long time. It can be very productive. Malbec is a grape variety that buds relatively early. It reaches maturity in late first period. It produces very fruity, tannic wines with fine, silky tannins.