To talk about Malbec in Bordeaux is to evoke a grape variety that is as iconic as it has been unfairly neglected. Once present in numerous blends, it gradually fell out of favour in pursuit of more consistent, easier-to-manage varieties. Yet, as Jean-Baptiste Duquesne highlights in his book Bordeaux, une histoire de cépages, passionate winegrowers are now choosing to restore it to its rightful place. Château Cazebonne is fully committed to this approach, as it is with other forgotten or lost grape varieties of the region.

At Château Cazebonne, this return to Malbec is no mere homage: it is a bold statement, a commitment to reconnecting Bordeaux with its history whilst opening up new flavour profiles. Cultivating Malbec means choosing a grape variety of true character—deep and sensual—that demands careful attention and a genuine understanding of the terroir.

Malbec: a historic grape variety reclaiming its place

Before becoming the hallmark grape of South West France or Argentina, Malbec—historically known as "Côt"—was an integral component of the Bordeaux vineyard. It contributed colour, power, density, and an incomparable fruity generosity. Replanting it today means reviving an age-old tradition and restoring invaluable varietal diversity, essential to the balance and complexity of our wines. Detailed insights into the history of the Malbec grape variety can be found in interwar archives and records, where it is frequently referenced under the name Côt, notably by figures such as Georges Bord in his account of Bordeaux grape varieties in 1932. Its parentage with Magdeleine Noire des Charentes makes it a grape variety akin to Cabernet-Malbec, deeply rooted in the viticultural identity of South West France.

Ampelographic profile of Malbec

Characteristic	Description
Budburst	Early, making it susceptible to spring frosts.
Flowering	Early.
Véraison	Early to mid-season.
Ripening	Mid to late-ripening, requiring a warm, dry autumn.
Vigour	Vigorous.
Growth habit	Semi-erect.
Downy mildew susceptibility	Susceptible to downy mildew.
Powdery mildew susceptibility	Susceptible to powdery mildew.
Botrytis susceptibility	Relatively susceptible to grey rot (Botrytis).
Black rot susceptibility	Susceptible to black rot.
Aromatic profile	Intense aromas of black fruit (blackcurrant, blackberry), plum, violet, with spicy (pepper) and occasionally smoky notes.
Winemaking potential	Produces deeply coloured wines, rich in tannins, with good structure and notable ageing potential.

Malbec is a demanding variety, particularly vulnerable to vine diseases and climatic variations. Yet on the warm, well-draining soils of Graves, it finds a remarkable equilibrium. Our organic and biodynamic viticulture provides an optimal environment for it to express its natural richness: living soils, preserved biodiversity, gentle vine management, and minimal stress to encourage optimal phenolic ripeness.

From vinification to tasting: the expression of Cazebonne Malbec

Malbec represents sheer generosity: aromas of ripe black fruits, violet, and peony, alongside subtle smoky and spicy hints, velvety tannins, and opulent depth without heaviness. Vinified gently and with precision, it reveals unexpected elegance, far removed from clichés of brute power, delivering wines of exceptional finesse.

At Cazebonne, we champion a respectful winemaking philosophy: indigenous yeast fermentation, zero enzymes or oenological additives, gentle extractions, and minimal sulphur additions depending on the cuvées (including cuvées with no added sulphur). Ageing is meticulous, designed to protect fruit purity and freshness, showcasing a vibrant Malbec deeply anchored in its terroir.

A grape variety for a resilient Bordeaux future

In the face of climate change, Malbec has found renewed relevance. It withstands heat well, retains natural acidity, develops supple tannins, and expresses a distinctive identity. The winemakers replanting it today are shaping the Bordeaux of tomorrow: more diverse, more authentic, and richer in heritage, whilst advancing an agroecological approach to viticulture.

Replanting forgotten grape varieties, practicing organic and biodynamic viticulture, and crafting unmanipulated wines lie at the heart of our philosophy. Malbec fits seamlessly into this vision: breathing life back into a more vibrant, diverse vineyard that honours its past. It is a variety that reflects our ethos: distinctive, expressive, and terroir-driven. However, other notable heritage varieties should not be overlooked, such as Prunelard, which also contributes to the extraordinary richness of our wine terroirs.

The winemakers who cultivate Malbec are reviving a forgotten chapter of Bordeaux. At Cazebonne, we are proud to champion this renaissance, from vine to glass, crafting cuvées in which Malbec regains its full nobility: generous, luminous, quintessentially Bordelais, yet resolutely modern. This replanting work is made possible thanks to the unwavering support of the many wine lovers who have embraced our wines. To explore the history of these varieties further, you can download the digital edition of the book "Bordeaux, une histoire de cépages". Feel free to test your knowledge on Malbec and other Bordeaux grape varieties, and discover our full range of cuvées available in the Cazebonne online boutique.