The forgotten past of the Bordeaux vineyard

The richness of the Bordeaux vineyard is not limited to the flagship grape varieties we know today. The history of wine in Bordeaux is marked by numerous varieties that, for various reasons, gradually vanished from the viticultural landscape. These forgotten grape varieties represent a genuine genetic and cultural heritage, bearing witness to a biodiversity once far richer and a different approach to viticulture. Their rediscovery—and, in some cases, rehabilitation—provides a better understanding of the evolution of the varietal mix and the challenges faced by winegrowers over the centuries.

The pillars of today's Bordeaux varietal mix

Today, the Bordeaux varietal mix is dominated by a few flagship varieties. For reds, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, alongside Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Carménère, account for virtually all plantings. As for whites, Sémillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle are the most widespread, forming the backbone of the region's great dry and sweet white wines.

Beyond the classics: other Bordeaux varieties in the background

While fame is often associated with varietal 'blockbusters', a few grape varieties remain permitted within the appellations whose presence has nonetheless become anecdotal. Carménère, for instance, although historically from Bordeaux, occupies only a minuscule proportion of vineyard surface. For white wines, Muscadelle, despite its importance for sweet wines, is often relegated behind Sémillon and Sauvignon. Due to their limited plantings, these varieties serve as a reminder of past diversity and highlight the progressive monoculture of the vineyard. The growing interest in heritage grape varieties and disease-resistant varieties in Bordeaux opens up new perspectives for the less common among them.

The forgotten Bordeaux red varieties

The ampelographic history of Bordeaux reveals a far wider palette of red grape varieties than exists today. Among the varieties once cultivated and now virtually lost, one can mention Pardotte, Mancin (also known as Mancin des Palus), and Bouchalès. Often abandoned due to low yields, disease susceptibility, or a profile deemed less 'noble' for crafting tannic ageworthy wines, these varieties reflect an era when production was perhaps less focused on concentration and more on a diversity of flavours and uses.

The wealth of lost white grape varieties

Bordeaux's white ampelographic heritage is no exception. Varieties such as Montils, Crouchen, Merlot Blanc, and Blanc Auba once contributed to the blend of the region's wines. Their characteristics (aromatics, acidity, adaptation to terroir) offered a wide range of profiles to white wines. Their decline is often linked to economic choices, shifts in consumer tastes, or lower disease resistance compared to today's dominant varieties. Grapes such as Magdeleine Noire des Charentes: the forgotten mother of Merlot and Malbec, or Balzac, an ampelographic enigma far from Bordeaux, demonstrate that this diversity extends well beyond our region. The article in the category 'Savagnin: the influential Jura ancestor absent from Bordeaux' also illustrates the richness of grape lineages and migrations.

The work of rediscovering these varieties, such as that undertaken by Château Cazebonne, is essential to preserving this heritage and anticipating the future of the Bordeaux vineyard in the face of climate change. For instance, the freshness of the South-West, such as that provided by Bouysselet, offers a promising path for Bordeaux when confronting these challenges. To learn more about this fascinating history of vineyards, feel free to download our book 'Bordeaux, a history of grape varieties'. To test your knowledge, take part in our wine quizzes, and if you wish to discover the fruit of this extensive research and rehabilitation work, browse our online shop where every bottle tells a part of this forgotten and reclaimed history. You will also discover Lauzet: a discreet Pyrenean grape variety, cousin to Bordeaux varieties, which is part of this initiative.