In our vineyards, we are now systematically planting rootstocks before grafting our forgotten grape varieties onto them in the second or third year

We have found that the vine establishes itself much better, allowing the plant to take root properly. Graft healing is resource-intensive for the plant, and we believe it is far better to require this effort from the rootstock once it is well established and has started to build up reserves. This practice is naturally more expensive and is not eligible for planting subsidies. Yet at a time when vineyards are suffering from decline, and when global warming is set to test our vines severely, we feel it is essential to experiment and challenge our practices. We may not be here in 50 years to see if our vines are still standing, but our children, we hope, will be able to reap the rewards of these choices. This is clearly not a financial calculation, for finance cannot account for value created over such horizons. We must restore purpose to our craft and stop prioritising the short term.