Ampelography, defined as the science of identifying, describing, and classifying grape varieties (the different cultivars of Vitis vinifera), is far more than mere nomenclature. Applied to Bordeaux, it becomes an indispensable key to unlocking a viticultural history of often underestimated richness and complexity. Far from the reductive image of a vineyard region dominated by a handful of star varieties, historical ampelography reveals a vastly broader past biodiversity, a true reflection of the uniqueness of our terroirs.

The Discoveries of Modern and Historical Ampelography

The meticulous work of ampelographers, past and present, is fundamental. First and foremost, it has allowed us to identify ancient grape varieties. Through the study of morphological characteristics (shape of leaves, bunches, and shoots), local synonyms, and mentions in historical texts—from Roman agronomists to 19th- and 20th-century ampelographical treatises—dozens of varieties once cultivated in Bordeaux have been characterised.

Modern ampelography, bolstered by advances in DNA analysis, has revolutionised our understanding of parentage and lineages. For example, it confirmed that Cabernet Sauvignon is a cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. It also revealed the kinship between Merlot and Malbec, which share Magdeleine Noire des Charentes: the forgotten mother of Merlot and Malbec as an ancestor. And who would have thought that Gouais Blanc, a humble variety, was the ancestor of a multitude of grapes such as Muscadelle or Colombard? These studies also shed light on the origins of forgotten varieties such as Gros Cabernet (Fer x Txakoli Noir), demonstrating the deep and sometimes unexpected roots of our genetic heritage.

Beyond classification, ampelography is a remarkable time machine. It allows us to retrace the history of a grape variety: its introduction, its heyday, and its potential decline, often linked to crises (phylloxera, powdery mildew), evolving vineyard practices (grafting), commercial influences (such as those of the Dutch or English), or regulations (the various AOC definitions). Major figures such as Comte Odart, Victor Rendu, Pierre Galet: the father of modern ampelography, or the authors of the monumental early 20th-century Ampélographie, Viala and Vermorel, not to mention Bordeaux figures like Édouard Féret, played a vital role in documenting this ampelographical heritage. The book "Bordeaux, une histoire de cépages" draws extensively on their work, offering a comprehensive panorama of this forgotten wealth.

At Château Cazebonne, ampelography is much more than a science: it is an essential guide for our ambitious project. It guides us in identifying endangered varieties, sharpens our understanding of their history, and helps us evaluate their oenological potential. It is a living discipline that enables us to forge an unbreakable link between our glorious viticultural past and the future of our cuvées. This work of remembrance and perseverance is made possible thanks to the invaluable support of the many wine lovers who have embraced our wines and share our passion for rediscovering Bordeaux's viticultural heritage.

To explore the culmination of this approach and taste our cuvées crafted from these rediscovered grape varieties, we invite you to visit the Cazebonne shop.

To deepen your knowledge of this fascinating history, Jean-Baptiste Duquesne published the book "Bordeaux, une histoire de cépages" with Éditions BBD. If you wish to receive the digital version by email, head to receive the digital version.

A Centuries-Old Bordeaux Viticultural Heritage

Bordeaux's ampelographical history is tied to its viticultural development since Roman times, around the 2nd century BC, along the Garonne. The introduction of exogenous varieties may have been facilitated by the construction of the Via Aquitania in the 1st century AD, complementing any local wild vines. Ancient authors, including Pliny and Columella, mentioned a "biturica" grape variety in the 1st century AD. Its origin remains uncertain, with suggested links to the Celtic Bituriges Vivisci tribe, founders of Burdigala, or to Cabernet Franc and its wild Pyrenean vines. This genetic diversity of Vitis vinifera is the result of a complex evolution of cultivated vines, shaped by history (T. Lacombe). In the 20th century, Bordeaux ampelographical research played a key role in preserving and studying this diversity. As early as 1937, the Grande Ferrade research station initiated a collection of nearly 400 varieties, including traditional grapes and local clones of the main varieties. These pioneering studies in France were conducted by ampelographers such as Louis Levadoux, Marcel Durquéty, Max Rives, Marc Hévin, Philippe Leclair, and Louis Bordenave, notably under the auspices of INRA after 1946. They helped shed light on the centuries-old origins of grape varieties and establish conservatories essential for the understanding and selection of varietal planting, well before certain secondary varieties were registered in the official catalogue.

The Pioneers and Contributors to Bordeaux Ampelography

The study and preservation of Bordeaux grape varieties developed thanks to the contributions of several ampelographers and historians. Among the pioneers, Comte Odart produced significant works on the classification of grape varieties. More recently, Pierre Galet was recognised for his breakthroughs in varietal identification through systematic methods. The work of Édouard Féret and Éditions Féret in Bordeaux also documented the evolution of the regional wine heritage. This research provided insights into the evolution of grape varieties, including their peak and decline, often linked to crises such as phylloxera or powdery mildew. These factors are essential to understanding the progressive simplification of varietal plantings observed in the Bordeaux vineyard, particularly following events such as the severe frosts of winter 1956. As early as 1937, the Grande Ferrade station, near Bordeaux, initiated pioneering conservation work. It housed a collection of grape varieties and clones of local cultivars, contributing to the preservation of the vine's genetic diversity.

The Rediscovered Diversity of Historical Bordeaux Grape Varieties

Contrary to the widespread notion of Bordeaux varietal plantings being reduced to a few "noble" varieties, ampelographical research reveals a far greater diversity in the past. Prior to the establishment of the Appellations d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) from 1935 onwards and the heavy vine losses during the winter frosts of 1956, a plurality of red varieties (such as Malbec, Petit Verdot, and even Carménère) and white varieties (such as Sauvignon, Sémillon, Muscadelle) constituted the vineyard's wealth. Beyond these still-familiar varieties, history holds a multitude of forgotten or even extinct Bordeaux grape varieties. These varieties offered distinct aromatic profiles and specific terroir adaptations, contributing to the vineyard's singularity and resilience. Studying these bygone varieties is essential to understanding the evolution of regional taste and viticultural practices.

The Role of the Chambre d'Agriculture's Grape Variety Conservatories

In the face of genetic erosion caused by vineyard crises and the rationalisation of varietal choices, the establishment of grape variety conservatories became essential. In the Bordeaux region, this mission was initiated very early on, well before other French wine regions. As early as 1937, the Grande Ferrade station—acquired by the State in 1921 and dedicated to agronomy—already housed an impressive collection of nearly 400 varieties, including traditional wine and table grapes, direct-producer hybrids, and rootstocks, as well as clones of major varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This pioneering work, which predated the official start of French clonal selection in 1944, enabled the distribution of plant material from controlled massal selections. Today, various regional organisations, grouped within a network led by the Institut Français de la Vigne et du Vin (IFV), continue this work of maintaining, selecting, and propagating local plant material. They are the guardians of a genetic heritage vital to the future of viticulture in the face of climatic and sanitary challenges.

Château Cazebonne, a Living Conservatory of Bordeaux Grape Varieties

At Château Cazebonne, we actively participate in this effort to preserve and promote Bordeaux's ampelographical heritage. Our estate has become a true conservatory of forgotten grape varieties, replanting and studying the cultivars that once formed the richness and diversity of Bordeaux wines. This approach allows us not only to rediscover lost flavours and aromas, but also to explore the resilience and adaptability of these varieties in the face of contemporary climate challenges. Thanks to this meticulous and passionate work, the wines of Cazebonne are a contemporary expression of a rich and complex viticultural history, offering unique cuvées that bear witness to this revived biodiversity. Our commitment to resilient grape varieties in Bordeaux lies at the heart of our identity.

At Château Cazebonne, we are proud to contribute to the rediscovery of Bordeaux's ancient grape varieties, a captivating endeavour made possible by the support of wine enthusiasts who embrace our wines and share our passion. To learn more about this fascinating history of Bordeaux grape varieties, we invite you to download our book "Bordeaux, une histoire de cépages". Feel free to also test your wine knowledge with our wine quizzes, and of course, discover the unique expression of our terroir and our rediscovered grape varieties by visiting our online shop. You can also explore the work of Georges Bord on Bordeaux grape varieties in 1932 for a deeper historical perspective. One of the new climate adaptations in Bordeaux is Liliorila.